A very detailed 3d print character might be 20-30million polys prior to decimation, and 500k-1M polys when sent to the printer.
A high-resolution character in a video game might be 10-15k polys after retopology. All the detail that you wish to be present in your printed 3d model, MUST be present in the geometry itself, and that means a very detailed, organic 3d-print model is likely to be far, far heavier, geometrically, than other kinds of model. One very important difference between video game/film character modeling and 3d-print character modeling is that a 3d-print character model cannot benefit from visual tricks like smooth shading, baking normal maps to a low-poly retopologised model, subdividing only during renders, etc. You may find that you do not need to create insanely detailed models, though, in which case Blender may be enough. It can manage a couple million polys at a time in Sculpt mode, but that doesn’t always cover my needs. As a beginner, though, I think Blender could definitely be used to create a 3d-print ready miniature from start-to-finish, but you might have to translate some of my ZBrush steps into Blender.Ī primary reason I do not bother creating fully-detailed print models in Blender is that VBOs are not yet implented in Edit Mode, so Blender is too slow to properly edit/boolean very heavy (multi-million poly) models. To do this on a production scale, I find ZBrush to be essential for my work, and use Blender as my main supplementary poly modeling tool.
I’m a professional character artist/product designer in the hobby wargaming industry, so I’ll try to answer your questions and give you a few pointers.
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